Article by Janna Tamargo | Photography by Janna Tamargo | Published November 17, 2024
When I began traveling to Turkey nearly a decade ago, I fell in love with baklava. Maybe it was the delicate, flaky layers, the crunch of the nuts, or the perfect mellifluent of both, but I was instantly hooked. I quickly became a self-proclaimed baklava connoisseur. If you've seen the 2020 movie The Old Guard, you might remember Charlize Theron's character proudly identifying the origins of different baklava; that's me! I had baklava tasting down to a science but hadn't realized just how rich and complex this sweet dessert's history was.
The Question of Authenticity
For centuries, Greeks and Turks have passionately debated the origins of baklava. But what truly makes baklava authentic? To explore this question, I reached out to a trusted friend and expert, Dr. Osman Güldemir, Director of the Eskişehir Vocational School at Anadolu University in Eskişehir, Turkey (Türkiye). Over the years, Osman and I have had countless conversations about baklava's unique qualities, and I knew he'd bring valuable insights.
Dr. Güldemir completed his PhD with a dissertation titled Classical and Modernizing Ottoman Cuisine and Adaptation to the Present, building on his earlier work on adapting Kitabüt Tabbahin, an Ottoman cookbook manuscript, for modern audiences. With his deep knowledge of Ottoman culinary traditions and contemporary interpretations, Osman's perspectives shed light on what makes baklava a piece of history, not just a decadent dessert.
Baklava and the Role of Tradition
Our conversation began with the concept of authentic food. "There isn't necessarily a right or wrong answer," I said, "as people, whether Greek, Turkish, or otherwise, have strong opinions about baklava." For Osman, though, baklava is deeply personal.
Osman: “I think it’s the traditional history and emotional connection that makes baklava more authentic than other foods. When we make baklava at home, it’s not just about the dessert itself; it symbolizes family, friendship, and the joy of gathering together. It represents significant events, like Ramadan and other religious and cultural rituals. Baklava brings meaning beyond taste; it connects to our beliefs and traditions.”
In Turkey, you can buy baklava from a store, but when you make it at home, it's different. "You're creating it with your family," Osman explained. "Each person plays a role, whether it's preparing the ingredients or carefully layering the phyllo dough. Then, you have to wait for hours or even a full day before it's ready to eat. This waiting adds to the experience. Baklava is not something you can eat every day; it's reserved for special occasions and celebrations. It's a dessert that requires patience, love, and a sense of tradition."
Ingredients and Regional Variation
I asked Osman if he thinks a specific ingredient makes one baklava more authentic than another.
Osman: “No, not necessarily. In my family, we use walnuts in our baklava, but if you go to Gaziantep, they often use pistachios. The ingredients depend on what’s available in the local geography. For me, walnuts have always been traditional because that’s what my family uses. It’s a reflection of our region and personal history.”
Baklava was traditionally prepared for Eid-al-Fitr, also known in Türkiye as Ramazan or Şeker Bayramı, a religious holiday when Muslims celebrate the end of Ramadan, the Islamic holy month of fasting. Like many others in Türkiye, Osman's family uses ingredients passed down through generations, connecting each new batch of baklava with memories of past celebrations and family gatherings.
Authenticity as Tradition and Cultural Connection
"So, for you, walnuts are key when it comes to authentic baklava," I said. "It's interesting how, when I mention authenticity, you immediately associate it with tradition. Would you say that authenticity in food is closely tied to traditional concepts?"
Osman: “Yes, absolutely. Even when I travel to different countries, like England or Malaysia, I’m always seeking out their traditional foods. While I’m eating or drinking, I think about the history, the cultural significance, and the rituals associated with these foods. Authenticity is about more than taste; it’s about the layers of culture, history, and geography that come together in each dish. The ingredients themselves carry the flavor of the place they come from.”
This perspective resonates deeply with me. Like Osman, I became obsessed with authentic food because of my travels. Food feels like the quickest and most immersive way to connect with the culture when I'm in a new country for a short time. By eating local dishes, you learn more than just flavors. You learn about socioeconomic factors, geography, climate, and cultural traditions. It's an incredibly efficient way to understand a culture, especially if you don't have time to explore every corner of the country.
UNESCO Recognition and Cultural Pride
In our interview, Osman mentions Gaziantep. In 2013, Turkey registered baklava as a national dish with UNESCO, officially recognizing Gaziantep, a southeastern Turkish city, as the home of "authentic Turkish baklava." This designation was not without controversy, particularly among Greek culinary historians and chefs who argue that the baklava they prepare holds an equal claim to authenticity. The UNESCO recognition fueled further debates but also highlighted the importance of preserving traditional methods.
The Essence of Baklava
My conversation with Dr. Güldemir left me with a deeper appreciation for baklava beyond its addictive taste. As Osman emphasized, authentic baklava is not just about ingredients or techniques; it's about tradition, patience, family, and community. It's a dessert that tells a story of history, geography, and the people who make and share it.
Ultimately, baklava is far more than a dessert; it's a piece of cultural heritage and national pride for many, treasured by both those who craft it and those who savor it. As I continue my journey as a baklava enthusiast, I'm reminded that whether you like pistachio or walnut baklava (I honestly love both), every bite offers a glimpse into history, tradition, and connection that can be highly personal, and that is what makes it truly authentic.
